I’ll admit it. Yellowstone National Park lost a bit of its mystique for me while sitting in standstill traffic on a highway in West Yellowstone. Was this what old Teddy Roosevelt envisioned? Miles of cars spitting exhaust, overweight children taking photos behind tinted glass from the back of maroon minivans? Somehow I doubt it. But alas, the Yellowstone I have seen in documentaries and in my dreams does exist, it just takes a bit more work to find it. Here is how.
Timing is everything
Do not go during the peak tourism times of the year, which is typically late June to early September. Although the weather is good, the 1200+ campsites are filled, mostly with RVs (camping while remaining indoors) and those mansion style tents that can sleep 12, but usually only sleep one snoring man, his wife, and their two slack-jawed children.
Better, go in early June or late September. The weather is slightly more unpredictable, but the crowds are thinner, and chances are you wont be getting passed in your car by slowly ambling buffalo.
Better still, if you’re a bit of a brute yourself, go during the winter. Winter is a great time to see wolves, bison, elk, and many other of Yellowstone famous animals. Plus the park is empty. You will need to snowmobile or snowshoes/skis to get most places, but many swear this is the most beautiful and peaceful time of the year in Yellowstone.
Head for the hills
Go to the backcountry immediately. Don’t stop at Old Faithful, don’t go to Mud Volcano, just grab your pack and hit the backcountry. Even in peak tourism times, the backcountry allows you to escape the crowds. You will see wildlife while driving around the park, but trust me, the experience is 1000x better while in the backcountry, absent the dozens of paparazzi harassing the wildlife. Many people may be scared of being eaten my bears or trampled by moose in the backcountry, but as long as you have an iq over 90, and better luck than Christopher McCandless, you will be fine. Follow the rules, let the rangers know where your going, and enjoy the peace and solitude afforded by the part of the park less than 1% of the 3,000,000 visitors per year actually see.
Adapt
Just like the migrating bison and hibernating grizzlies, you must adapt to find the slice of the park you seek. Make your reservations ahead of time, but be prepared to change your plans on arrival. Talk to the rangers and the locals to see which campgrounds are full, what backcountry sites are closed, and where the wildlife has been spotted. Things like runoff, bear activity, and other natural events make some of the areas off-limits. So plan ahead, but be prepared to strike your plans and draw up new ones when circumstance demands. Follow these plans and find your own double-rainbow in YNP!
Where is your favorite place to get away from the crowds in YNP? Comment below!

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